Yesterday after we returned from Swakop we had about 4 hours until Yom Kippur began. Naturally as soon as we arrived I bolted for the washing machine (only about 3 loads fit on the line outside, so you gotta get there before there is no space to dry your clothes) after that I needed to swim because I was so hot and sweaty from the 4 hour bus ride in sweltering heat all smushed together and asleep. Before I even knew what happened it was time for dinner, and then we found out dinner was soup. Well, soup just would not do, not to fill us up for over 24 hours. So, Me lizzy and leigh (the other two jews) decided to go out to eat on a sunday evening in a 95% christian country...clearly that was leading to disappointment. The only place opened was SPUR. Spur is a really tacky tex-mex/american food joint- it's logo is an Indian (Native American) CHIEF in full headdress... the whole place is so cheesy, and a bit gross, and I legitimately freaked out when we realized it was the only place open. I yelled at god... literally. I Said "If I have to eat my freaking dinner here I am going to eat a cheese burger before services!!!!!" and then we turned the corner to find a little cafe that was closed, but the owner offered to open it for us, and the cook reopened the kitchen for us! And they were so sweet and rushed around to feed us before sunset, they were amazing... So, even though eggs and cheese on toast are not ideal for starting the fast, it was better than the alternative.
Then we went to services, which were the same as always, filled with secular and reform jews in jeans, with two orthodox guys leading, no singing, no kavannah/ruach, but everyone is very sweet and friendly which makes up for it.
We met this very cool american lady who founded Catholic Aids Action, and does really interesting non-profit work in Namibia. She drove us home in her classic volkswagen BEATLE, with hand painted green and blue swirls all around the border... coolest car EVER and a super interesting woman. She also drove us home today and told us about the revolution she staged at shul where all the women sat downstairs during services, in the mens section, one time. We had an interesting discussion about how to make services more bareable, she told me to be as defiant as possible and to stage my own revolution... I may just try to get a women's service together to sing carlebach tunes instead of chanting!!!
Now the fast is over, I broke at the shul and again when I came back to the house! I still mss bagels (preferably salt) and lox with cream cheese, but I'll survive.
All my friends here were super supportive and helpful throughout the day, and when I returned from services my roommate made me a card for the new year with candy!!!!! It was so sweet. So, as difficult as it may be to be away for the holidays it was an overall positive experience, and I'm glad I got to see the holidays in another part of the world!
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